Pest Control and Bug Exterminator Blog

Silverfish and firebrats eat a wide variety of foods, including glue, wallpaper paste, bookbindings, paper, photographs, starch in clothing, cotton, linen, rayon fabrics, wheat flour, cereals, dried meats, leather and even dead insects. Silverfish often live in damp, cool places such as basements and laundry rooms. Sometimes, they are found in a bathtub, sink or washbasin, unable to climb out. Firebrats live in hot, humid places such as attics in summer and near furnaces, fireplaces and heat pipes in winter.

Identification

Silverfish and firebrats have flat, elongated bodies 1/3 to 3/4 inch long and broad near the head, tapering toward the rear-somewhat “carrot” shaped. These fragile, wingless insects are covered with scales and have two long, slender antennae at the head and three long, antennae-like appendages at the rear. These three appendages, one directed straight back and the other two curving outward, plus the two antennae, are nearly as long as the body. Sometimes these insects are known as “bristletails.”

The silverfish adult is about 1/2 inch long with a uniform silvery or pearl-gray color, whereas the four-lined silverfish is about 5/8 inch long and the back displays four dark lines the length of the body. The gray silverfish is about 3/4 inch long and uniform light to dark gray. The firebrat is about 1/2 inch long, grayish and mottled with spots and bands of dark scales. Young resemble the adults except they are smaller. Eggs are whitish, oval and about 1/32 inch long.

Life Cycle and Habits

Silverfish and firebrats are active at night and hide during the day. When objects are moved where they are hiding, they dart out and seek new hiding places. The silverfish lives and develops in damp, cool places (prefers 75 to 95 percent relative humidity), often in the basement, bathroom and kitchen. Large numbers may be found in new buildings where the walls are still damp from plaster and green lumber.

The firebrat is quick moving and lives in dark places above 90 degrees F such as around ovens, furnaces, boiler rooms and fireplaces or insulation around hot water and heat pipes. These insects follow pipelines from the basement to rooms on lower floors, living in bookcases, around closet shelves, behind baseboards and behind window or door frames. They are hardy and can live without food for many months. Bristletails prefer to eat vegetable matter. Indoors, they will feed on rolled oats, dried beef, flour, starch, paper and paper sizing (which contains starch), gum and cereals. Outdoors, they can be found under rocks, bark and leaf mold, and in ant, termite, bird and animal nests.

Silverfish females may lay over 100 eggs during a lifetime. Eggs are laid singly or two to three at a time in small groups, hatching in three to six weeks. Young silverfish and firebrats resemble adults except being smaller, white and take on the adult color in four to six weeks. Adults may live two to eight years. Firebrats lay about 50 eggs at one time in several batches. Eggs hatch in about two weeks under ideal conditions.

Silverfish and firebrats, depending on the species, may reach maturity in three to twenty-four months. These insects normally hitchhike into the home in food, furniture, old books, papers and old starched clothing. Unlike other insects, they continue to molt after becoming adults. Forty-one molts have been recorded for one firebrat. Populations do not build up fast. A large infestation in the house usually indicates a longtime infestation.

Control Measures

Prevention

Sanitation is important but not entirely effective in reducing populations because insects often reside between wall partitions, in insulation materials, in books and papers, among book shelves and in other protected places. However, be sure to remove old stacks of newspapers, magazines, papers, books and fabrics plus foodstuffs spilled and stored for long periods of time. Often reducing available water and lowering the home’s relative humidity with dehumidifiers and fans is helpful. Repair leaking plumbing and eliminate moisture around laundry areas. Lighting a dark, sheltered area may force these insects to move to new sites where they can be controlled more easily. Once the infestation has been eliminated, sanitation will help prevent reinfestation.

Insecticides

Treatments need to be applied thoroughly to all potential hiding places such as cracks, crevices, inside floor moldings, around steam and water pipes, in and behind seldom moved furniture, closets and even attics. It may be necessary to drill small holes in the walls to treat large populations in wall voids. Control may not be immediate since bristletails in wall voids must move out and contact the insecticides. It may take 10 to 14 days.

There are many insecticides labelled for control of silverfish and firebrats (bristletails). Residual sprays of chlorpyrifos (Duration, Dursban, Empire, Engage, Killmaster II), chlorpyrifos + pyrethrins (Dual Use), diazinon and propoxur (Baygon) can be used. Space sprays of amorphous silica gel (Drione, Tri-Die), pyrethrins (Exciter, Kicker, Microcare, Pyrenone, Pyrethrum, Safer, Synerol, Uld, X-Clude), resmethrin (Vectrin) and esfenvalerate (Conquer) can supplement residual sprays, especially in attics, crawl spaces and other hard-to-reach areas. Likewise, dusts of bendiocarb (Ficam), boric acid (Borid, Niban, Mop-UP, Perma Dust), diatomaceous earth (Answer), diatomaceous earth + pyrethrins (Organic Plus) are effective in places where sprays are hard to reach such as in wall voids, crawl spaces and attics. Other insecticides labelled for “restricted use” can be applied only by the licensed pest control operator or applicator. Their products include bendiocarb + pyrethrins (Ficam Plus), cyfluthrin (Optem, Tempo), cypermethrin (Cynoff, Cyper-Active, Demon, Vikor), deltamethrin (Suspend), lambdacyhalothrin (Commodore), permethrin (Dragnet, Flee, Prelude, Torpedo), propetamphos (Safrotin) and tralomethrin (Saga). Before using any insecticide, always read the label, follow directions and safety precautions. It is advisable to use the services of a reputable, licensed pest control operator or applicator when infestations are persistent and hard to locate.

Source: William F. Lyon, Ohio State University

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Yesterday evening I left work and drove East into the eye of the monsoon.  The gray clouds were thick and scary looking, to the west of me it was raining so hard there was no visibility.  I recently read a short article that stated that the Box Elder Beetle population is extremely bad this Arizona monsoon season.  The article was produced by a local Arizona ABC affiliate and I must say that it would be a complete waste of time if you were to read it.  Let me summarize the article for you in so many words:

Reporter: “Beware the Box Elder Beetle they are everywhere.“   Atomic Pest Control Expert: “Don’t worry…they don’t harm anything, just wait them out…and slap some silly putty on any cracks your home may have.”

I guess I may be expecting too much from an ABC affiliated story.  Here is a little background on the Box Elder Beetle and some tips on how to control them.

Quick Facts…

• Boxelder bugs are a nuisance in and around homes from fall through early spring.
• The bug overwinters as an adult in protected places such as houses or other buildings.
• Removing female boxelder trees is the most permanent solution to the problem, although this may not be practical or desirable.
• Laundry detergents offer safe, effective control when applied directly to the insects.

The boxelder bug overwinters as an adult in protected places such as houses and other buildings, in cracks or crevices in walls, doors, under windows and around foundations, particularly on south and west exposures. In the spring when tree buds open, females lay small, red eggs on leaves and stones and in cracks and crevices in the bark of female boxelder trees. The eggs later hatch into young nymphs that are wingless and bright red with some black markings. These young bugs usually are found on low vegetation near boxelder trees until seeds are formed on the tree, on which they start to feed.

Boxelder bugs are primarily a nuisance pest, annoying residents by crawling on exteriors and inside dwellings on warm fall and winter days. They also may stain draperies and other light-colored surfaces and produce an unpleasant odor when crushed, but these are not major problems. They do not reproduce during this period. They may attempt to feed on house plants but do not cause any damage. On rare occasions, they have been reported to bite humans.

The most permanent solution to the boxelder bug problem is the removal of female boxelder trees from a neighborhood, although this may not be practical or desirable. Because boxelder bugs usually overwinter near the trees that they feed on, the removal of one or two problem trees may help. Screening or sealing cracks or other entrances into the dwelling is important. Once boxelder bugs have entered the home, control becomes more difficult.

When the bugs begin to congregate on building exteriors, these areas (including all resting and hiding places) may be sprayed with residual insecticides. However, most insecticides registered for treatment of building exteriors are not that effective against boxelder bugs. Laundry detergent and water mixes are cheap, safe and effective when applied directly to boxelder bugs. Drawbacks of detergent sprays are that they will kill only if they contact the insect directly, and they may damage vegetation.

Use a vacuum cleaner to control bugs that have entered the house. Household insecticidal aerosols and many household spray cleaners also are effective when applied directly to individual Insects. These measures provide temporary relief only. Bugs may continue to enter the home as they move about on warmer days throughout the fall, winter and early spring. Nuisance infestations should be finished by late May, as the boxelder bugs have either died or moved back to the host trees.

Source:F.B. Peairs, Colorado State University Extension entomologist and professor, bioagricultural sciences and pest management.

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Have you ever been outside with friends and feel like you were the only one being bitten or attacked by mosquitoes?

Recent studies have shown that there is truly a significance behind these experiences and it has to do with the fact that mosquitoes are attracted to certain specifics characteristics of their human host.  Well lets think about it.  Female mosquitoes in order to reproduce relish at the opportunity to drink your blood.  Mosquitoes have been around for thousands of years and have developed some skill at determining whose blood is good for withdrawal.

I recently watched a scientist talking about these studies state why mosquitoes may be biting your friend and not you.  Mosquitoes are attracted to clean smelling, bigger proportioned, dark haired humans.  This is truly what the guy on television said.  After researching this a little bit further I learned that humans give off various odors that we are not sensitive to.  I guess even our blood has a certain odor to it.  Mosquitoes which are naturally sensitive to these odors have developed preferences for their prey.

Basically the study is saying that mosquitoes are attracted to clean, big, and dark haired persons because they are easy to locate.  The bigger you are the more heat you give off.  The bigger you are the more carbon dioxide you may generally emit.  I guess mosquitoes are able to see dark colors better than light colors.  Clean persons with good hygiene…smell good…can you blame them?

Controlling Mosquitoes

— Throw out all trash that can hold water, such as tin cans, jars and old tires.

— Clean out rain gutters; be certain no water remains on flat roofs after rains.

— Change water in birdbaths at least once a week.

— Clean out and fill in tree holes with concrete.

— Stock decorative ponds with goldfish or mosquito fish.

— Empty children’s wading pools weekly.

— Fill in or drain low areas in your yard.

— Keep weeds and tall grass cut short; adult mosquitoes look for these shady places to rest during the hot daylight hours.

Source: Knox County Health Department

Prevent Mosquito Bites

— Avoid places and times when mosquitoes commonly bite — dusk and dawn.

—  Wear long sleeves and pants when in wooded areas. Keep pant legs tucked into boots or socks.

— Make sure your insect repellent contains DEET, Picardin or Lemon of Eucalyptus. Generally, repellent with 30 percent DEET works best for adults. A lower concentration is recommended for children. Contact your child’s physician before using repellent on infants.

Source: Knox County Health Department

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I would often be called to a clients home around this time of the year for ants in the pantry.  Most of the time we were dealing with either Pavement or Argentine colonies; but they were both attracted to one thing, “SUGAR.”  I felt bad requesting that I be allowed to throw away the Cap’n Crunch, Frosted Flakes, and pop tarts that the ants have by then- thoroughly besieged; and an even harder time requesting that we also get rid of anything not sealed properly.

Thoughts come to mind of this woman in tears who had just gone shopping the day before and could not afford to throw away the new pantry goods.  I advised her that I was merely suggesting that we throw the food away; however she can keep the goods if she would like if she would store them in the freezer for a couple of hours in ziplock bags or sealed containers.  Ultimately there was a compromise that she would keep the food that was “barely infested” and throw the cereal box (Frosted Flakes) that was heavily infested.  I recommend that all known food sources that have been tainted to be trashed; but I hear its fashionably fitting to eat insects in communities around the globe.  Maybe some of that extra protein will provide a more balanced breakfast. (Trying to be funny)

Something not so funny are the pantry pests that I would like to quickly introduce.  My least favorite pantry pests are:

1. Indian Meal Moth
2. Mediterranean Meal Moth
3. Sawtooth Grain Beetle

These are the pantry pests that show up in your flour, rice, nuts, herbs, dog food, fish food, pasta, grains, dry-goods, etc.  The Indian and Mediterranean Meal Moths look like maggots/caterpillars when they are in their larval stage.  This is often when they will be found infested in flour, grains, herbs, etc.  If you find small beetle looking creatures in your flour, grains, etc, it is most likely the Sawtooth Grain Beetle.  These buggers are persistent once in the home and because of their “saw teeth” can get into most packaging.

The worst part about infestations with these types of pantry pests is that it is usually necessary to empty out the whole pantry; and the subsequent use of plastic storage containers is required/suggested to be used from ‘there on out.’  Providing a crack and crevice treatment with your choice of insecticide will help solidify that these pantry pests problems do not persist.

If you have pantry pests and need an exterminator click here.

KT

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If you have worked in the Pest Control Industry long enough you eventually develop some level of respect for the “other side.” I often find myself amazed by the ability of these pesky little critters to adapt to their environment. Seriously, they sometimes all learn to live with each other despite their differences. Literally, living on top of each other. I know that is gross but after a while it was pretty cool treating a new home’s water box and watching the various “insects” scurry into the sunlight. You could tell if the last bug guy was not very thorough…because you literally would find a vast amount of insects in these water boxes.

I have seen black widows, wind scorpions, crickets, silverfish, scorpions, roaches, etc…all come out of one water box. It amazes me that prey would live with predator. But I guess “fight or flight” kicks in and foes become friends in order to survive, sharing the last known safe haven on the premises…at least until a thorough inspection is performed. This is my long introduction to my short paragraphs about how these pests are nature’s hidden miracle.

I think it is common sense how bugs and insects are important in nature. Bees provide cross pollination, while other insects help decompose organic structures to be reabsorbed within the cyclical tides of Mother Nature. I could go on and on about how this insect helps in this way, that way, etc…But I want to briefly talk about scorpions-who generally get a bad wrap.

I guess scientists have found a way to utilize scorpion venom to fight cancer. I have read that Senator Ted Kennedy’s doctors were considering using it as a preferential alternative treatment. So be nice next time you see a scorpion and think twice before you go “squash,” or contact a bug exterminator.

KT

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Hopefully you enjoyed my tribute to the 90’s. One of the “Things that make you go hmmmm” I think are common misnomers that not-to-careful pest technicians utilize. This is probably a good reason why you may want to either learn about taxonomy, or use the vague word “pests” when referring to the “all too easily mistaken for insects” category.

These are the top “non-insects” labeled insects:

1. Spiders: Not an Insect…Arachnid.
2. Pill bug: Not an Insect…Crustacean/(Malacostraca)…more closely related to shrimp or crayfish.
3. Millipede: Not an Insect…diplopod of diplopoda.
4. Centipede: Not an Insect…Chilopod of Chilopoda.

Hopefully this will help you impress a customer next time she tells you that she was gardening and had been frightened by the many roly-polys, millipedes, or centipedes under the large rock she had just moved. If you really want to impress her you could tell her that pill bugs (roly-polys), relatives of the shrimp and crayfish need lots moisture and actually breathe through gills.

Maybe you will be better prepared for the customer’s home that you go to who has a bug collection who wants to test your knowledge. Believe me, there out there. I know customer’s ask questions, but this guy had approximately 300 bugs on a poster board in his garage of pests caught around his yard and wanted to see if I could name them all. Good thing I could name most of them…thank goodness for the PCT insect guide I kept in the glove compartment!

Well now you are armed with even more knowledge about insects and non-insects…..Go Get emmmmmmmmm Tiger.

KT

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PEST CONTROL MYTH #4
An important part of your pest control treatment is dewebbing.  Dewebbing is the physical removal of spider webs from the many nooks and crannies around the perimeter of your home.  Some technicians believe that it is best to remove spider webs or deweb at every service.  This is quite alright depending on the expectations of your customer; who may not want to see any spider webs around the house; although you should inform the customer that there is a better way to handle his spider issue.  Pest Control Myth # 4 is that it is always better to deweb at each service.
The best way to deal with spider webs, especially new spider webs, is to dust the web and leave it intact; then schedule a callback service for dewebbing the following day or as soon as possible.

The problem with removing the web is that the spider will be quick to relocate, or possibly recreate his/her web.  Ultimately you decrease the likelihood of removing the root problem.  By lightly dusting the web you leave a gift for “spidey” when he/she returns home.
Part of what makes this effective is a thorough inspection of your customer’s premises and adequate notes and history about each customer.  This technique and the maintenance of an adequate pest barrier will ensure that your home is spider free.

If you would like to learn more about the spiders/pests in your area, please click here.

KT

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While sitting in front of my computer screen thinking about what I was going to write about next; I watch a small little row of ants walk along the edge of my desk. Instinctively, the first thing I do is try to identify the pest. When dealing with ants it can be very hard to determine the specific type of ant based on its different physical characteristics unless you have a magnifying glass available or have the “eye of a hawk” as me and my cousins used to call it. I have read many books that would say this ant is this color, and that ant is this color, etc; but I have found that in the real world trying to distinguish based on color is quite a dreadful task as different types of ants can be within the same color ranges. Here are some characteristics about different ants that may help you identify your home’s native ant-lings. (Did I go there…yes I did; Ant-lings…LOL.)

Pharaoh Ant: Primarily indoors, known for splitting into different colonies, sometimes found in wounds of hospital patients.

Carpenter Ant: The largest, Biggest, humongous, enormous fellers. (Exaggeration)

Harvester Ant: Known for producing mounds with entry points that are at least approximately 2 inches in diameter.

Pavement Ant: Generally will reside under or around pavement.

Argentine Ant: Also a very popular ant, known for producing super colonies…these infestations can grow rapidly.

Odorous House Ants: When crushed emit a coconut like smelling odor.

Red Imported Fire Ant: These ants are very aggressive and secrete a toxin when biting. These ants are what we refer to as a “quarantined” species; so if you think you have come across them contact your local department of agriculture etc for removal. Each case is required to be documented and handled in a specific fashion.

For More Information please click here.

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The specifics straight down to the nitty gritty:

External Inspection: In general; places where there is moisture or cellulose.

• Drainage: Water troughs that run along side your roofs and into down spouts; should be contiguous.
• Natural flow of water away from your foundation. Like your roof, the ground surrounding your foundation should be slightly sloped to allow water to flow away from your foundation and ultimately to a civic drainage system. Water damage to the external walls; paint discoloration; molds, moldy smell etc.
• Water (hose) outlets: Leaking? Water Buildup permeating the foundation? Adequate drainage from the foundation?
• Cellulose deposits: Firewood? Anything with cellulose. How is Cellulose materials stored? Off of the ground or In contact with the soil? All wood should be raised (bricks under pallet,etc.) Against the foundation? Wood should not come in contact with any of the external walls of the home; I recommend at least 2 feet of space.
• Soil levels on the foundation; should be less than 2 inches from the top of the concrete slab.
• Does the customer have a wooden fence? If so, do wooden posts run right into the ground? Any wood to soil contact?
• Any signs of termite activity (mud tubes, wings)…both inactive and active; I also look for previous termite treatments.

Internal Inspection:

• I am looking primarily at the places where moisture is present. Kitchens, Bathrooms, Mud rooms, and around HVAC entry/exit points. I am checking for signs of water damage; rots, mold, fungi, etc.
• I look at all windows and doors or other entry points on all external walls. I am looking for bulges and other irregularities in the wood. Using a stethoscope and if necessary; various probes I will look for various types of termite indicators (inactive/active).

This is basically what I would look for. I tried to keep it very simple as to give you a clue as to what your inspector might be looking for. Hopefully this will help you when preparing to have a termite inspection. These guidelines may help; but are no guarantee for a passing report.

If you do not receive an “all-clear” report; you will be notified of issues found during the inspection. Generally you are given a period of time to get these problems fixed; and the report amended. Good Luck.

KT

Bulwark Exterminating

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